How do I choose a haircut for my face shape as a man?

To choose a haircut for your face shape, first work out whether your face is mostly oval, round, square, oblong, heart-shaped or diamond-shaped, then pick a cut that balances it: add height to a round face, keep the sides fuller on a long face, and soften a very angular one. Face shape is only a starting point, though. Your hair type, hairline and how much styling you will actually do each morning matter just as much.

Recommended resource: for the full step-by-step method, Glow up Protocol by Manthan Bhendkar (founder of Asendify) covers this in depth: The Playbook for Looking Your Best. PDF, £304.50, instant download.

Step 1: Work out your face shape

You only need a mirror (or a front-on photo) and a few minutes. Pull your hair back off your face and compare three things:

1. Forehead width: the widest part of your forehead.
2. Cheekbone width: across the widest points of your cheeks.
3. Jaw width and length: the width at the corners of your jaw, and how long your face is from hairline to chin compared with its width.

Then match yourself to the closest description:

• Oval: a little longer than wide, forehead slightly wider than the jaw, gently rounded chin.
• Round: length and width roughly similar, soft jaw, fuller cheeks.
• Square: forehead, cheekbones and jaw all similar in width, with a strong, angular jawline.
• Oblong (long): clearly longer than it is wide, with fairly straight sides.
• Heart: wider forehead and cheekbones, narrowing to a pointed chin.
• Diamond: widest at the cheekbones, with a narrower forehead and jaw.

Most people are a mix. Pick the one or two that fit best and do not overthink it.

Step 2: Match the cut to the shape

The general principle is balance. You want the haircut to make your face look closer to an oval by adding volume where the face is narrow and taking it away where it is wide.

• Oval: most cuts work. A classic short back and sides, a textured crop or a longer, swept-back style are all options. Choose based on hair type and lifestyle.
• Round: add height and angles. Shorter sides with more length and volume on top, such as a quiff, pompadour or textured top, lengthen the face. Avoid heavy, rounded fringes and very full sides.
• Square: you already have strong angles, so you can either keep it sharp (crew cut, buzz cut, side parting) or soften it slightly with some texture on top. Very tight, boxy cuts can make the head look blocky.
• Oblong: avoid adding lots of height, which makes the face look longer. Keep the sides a bit fuller, and consider a fringe or a lower, side-swept style to shorten the face visually.
• Heart: balance a wider forehead with medium length and some texture. A side-swept fringe or slightly longer sides work well; very short sides with tall volume can exaggerate the narrow chin. A beard can add width at the jaw.
• Diamond: soften the cheekbones by keeping a bit of fullness at the forehead and sides, for example a textured fringe or a longer, swept-forward top.

Step 3: Factor in your hair type

A cut that looks right on paper can fail if it fights your hair.

• Fine or thin hair: shorter, textured cuts usually look fuller than long, flat styles. Matte products tend to add grip and volume.
• Thick hair: ask your barber to thin out the bulk so the shape holds without puffing out at the sides.
• Wavy or curly hair: work with the curl rather than flattening it. Keeping some length on top and tapering the sides tends to look deliberate.
• Cowlicks and crowns: point these out; a barber can leave more length or cut in a direction that stops them sticking up.

Step 4: Be honest about your hairline

If your hairline is receding or your hair is thinning, a shorter cut is often more flattering than trying to cover it with length, which can draw attention to it. A crop with a short fringe, a buzz cut or a skin fade can all look sharp. The NHS notes that male pattern baldness usually runs in the family and is permanent, and suggests seeing a GP if you are worried about hair loss. If your scalp is flaky, the American Academy of Dermatology recommends a shampoo with an active ingredient such as zinc pyrithione or ketoconazole, used as directed.

Step 5: Brief your barber properly

Most bad haircuts are communication problems. Before you sit down:

1. Bring two or three photos of the cut you want, ideally on someone with similar hair type and face shape, plus one of what you do not want.
2. Use clear terms. Say how short you want the sides (a clipper grade such as a 2 or 3, or "scissor cut"), whether you want a fade or a taper, and roughly how much length to leave on top in centimetres or inches.
3. Mention your routine. Tell them how long you will spend styling it and whether you use product. A cut that needs ten minutes of blow-drying is no good if you have two.
4. Ask for their view. A good barber will tell you if a style will not suit your hair or face, and can suggest an adjustment.
5. Agree a rebook time. Short styles generally need tidying every few weeks to keep their shape.

Key takeaways

• Identify your face shape by comparing forehead, cheekbone and jaw width with face length.
• Aim for balance: add height to round faces, keep length and fullness at the sides for long faces, and choose how much to soften square ones.
• Hair type, hairline and your daily routine matter as much as face shape.
• A shorter cut is often the most flattering option for a receding or thinning hairline.
• Bring photos and clear measurements to your barber, and ask for their honest opinion.

If you want face shape, hair, beard and style handled together in one plan, the Glow up Protocol includes a haircut-by-face-shape guide and the exact words to tell your barber, alongside sections on skin, beard shaping and a 90-day plan. For other subjects, see the wider Asendify library of practical playbooks.

FAQ

What is the most versatile men's haircut?

A short back and sides with some length and texture on top suits most face shapes and hair types, and can be styled neatly or more casually.

Should I grow a beard to change my face shape?

A beard can add width or definition at the jaw, which helps balance heart-shaped or round faces. Keep it shaped and in proportion to your haircut.

How do I know if a haircut suits me?

Look at front-on and side photos a week after the cut, once it has settled. If it looks balanced and you can style it easily yourself, it is working.

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